American designer Robert Geller runs his eponymous line and another called Gustav Von Aschenbach, which takes its name from the central character Thomas Mann’s novella Death in Venice. Robert Geller is a scholar. A designer comfortable theming collections around the Basel School of Design, and littering show notes with challenging German vernacular (Geller was born in Germany). A spot of pretension is no bad thing. This yellowy brown sweatshirt would just be a yellowy brown sweatshirt otherwise. As it is, it’s probably a metaphor for something. The last thing it actually is, is a yellowy brown sweatshirt.
Geller’s output for both his lines is far from the avant-garde, it’s all wearable, generously sized casual wear, albeit with luxurious touches and an equally luxurious price point. Putting the demands of catwalk fashion to one side though, this is a really robust, day-in-day-out piece with a handsome sprinkling of interest. Look at all that panelling. It’s like the 80’s gym-wear middle-aged mums used to wear while grunting in front of Mad Lizzy. Check out Mike Leigh’s back catalogue, or This is England, you’ll spot this kind of thing worn in pink and power blue.
There’s a ‘double layered jersey back panel’ and a capacious looking kangaroo pocket up front. I also like the wide ribbing at the waist and cuffs. The whole thing has a beefy and brawny mood, a far cry from the chintzy glamour of a New York runway.
Around my neighbourhood of Peckham, this sweat would sit perfectly. Of course, most would assume you’d picked it up at one of the many local vintage outfitters. Rather than having dropped £417 on a designer no one in the UK is familiar with. But such is the inherent flaw in the ‘interesting’ global menswear game. If you’re hoping to impress anyone other than yourself with your obsessive good taste and the lengths you are prepared to go to look different, you’ll be waiting a long time.