While Junya Watanabe’s relentless collaborations with brands such as New Balance and The North Face leave me cold, I have marginally more interest in Junya’s tailored pieces; ideally when he’s making tailoring do things you don’t expect tailoring to do. The key word buried in there being ‘marginally’.
Each season I look to Junya to produce something startling, something essential. Yet each collection seems to exhibit similar ruminations on American sportswear and technical gear, expressed through patchworking and heavy-handed top-stitching. And I get that that’s Junya’s thing. It’s probably just me, but it like watching someone re-ploughing the same furrows; they might get a little neater, but broadly they’re the same as before.