Some dismiss it as diet Junya Watanabe, but for me, the Comme des Garçons Homme line succeeds in regularly offering wearable but interesting garments; the Comme DNA still clear and apparent. By eschewing the (over) reliance of aggressive top-stitching, large coloured panels, fractured logos and frequently restrictive fits of his mainline, Watanabe’s work for Homme just seems easier. Familiar certainly, but the kind of aspirant, crumpled luxe that’s come to define the dude who has a senior role in the creative industry, as well as the dude who wants to look like he has a senior role in the creative industry.
Regular readers will know I have a penchant for Comme shirts – not Comme SHIRT you understand – just broadly any ‘des Garçons shirt that doesn’t expose my nipples, or features a giant abstract print, or is basically a pair of long sleeves with a collar but no torso. This piece, from the less conceptual Comme des Garçons Homme line is bang on. Firstly, it’s a popover, which is unusual for Comme shirting. Then it’s got that giant kangaroo pocket with a natty white zip pull. Plus of course there’s the regulation Comme multi-pattern detail. This is the Comme shirt for the guy who like Engineered Garments and other such utilitarian dandyism. No call for an asymmetrical fringe and three-legged cycling shorts here.
None of which means a great deal if you a) haven’t got £362, or b) have £362 but would prefer to spend it on remaining alive through regular exposure to food, liquid and warmth. Let’s be honest, it’s a wanker’s amount for a cotton shirt. This is precisely the kind of thing I hope will end up in the Dover Street sale. They go straight to 50%. So it’d be £181. Which is… no actually that’s still a fuckshow. Perhaps we should just forget this whole thing.