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Too council estate photoshoot?

At odds with yesterday’s VISVIM denim simplicity, here’s a profoundly busy and serpentine rendering from Comme’s head boy Junya Watanabe. Is it me or is Watanabe’s work looking dated? Has it in fact for some time? While the North Face backpack cum coats grab the headlines, it’s convoluted shirts like this that pad out the stores. Always boasting a demented price point (this one won’t leave much change from £450) and rabid topstitching, they doubtless have their market, I’m just increasingly unsure as to who exactly buys this stuff?


If someone gave me this, I’d probably wear it, occasionally. I mean it’s Junya right. I just think I’d feel too obvious, too contrived, too covered in really bold stitching for no practical reason. This example, with its massive curl of stitching up the chest seems especially bombastic. Slightly overdone? Too heavy handed? I dunno, it’s down to taste I guess. This piece just feels extremely familiar. Many times I’ve seen guys walking out of London sample sales having snared these for a third of their price. Not this exact shirt. But similar enough to mistakenly pick it out of a police line up.

I’m not really part of the Junya hardcore. Feels like these days the brand is smoking tabs underneath the same bus stop as Supreme, Palace and Gosha. Too trainery. Too council estate photoshoot. Lacking a little of the refinement and mystery found in the most interesting eastern imprints.

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