As a general rule, I don’t like rules. What a bro wears and how he wears it is down to the individual bro. However, during my real and actual living life, I have been asked some clothing questions. And as a selfless, public service, I am happy to dredge my mind for ill-informed retorts. Get your learns on…
Q: I don’t know what my ‘look’ is, do I need a ‘look’?
A: You’ve got one whether you want it or not. Whether you think you conform to a ‘fashion look’ or not, is of little importance. Your uniform that tells the world what you’d like it to think about you. You also gravitate to stuff that, based on experience, you feel comfortable in, stuff that fits within your peer group, stuff you can afford and stuff you’ve subliminally been sold. If you have a stronger interest in men’s clothing, you may find yourself, broadly, influenced by one of these three key menswear aesthetics. Fig 1. was coined the ‘Goth Ninja’ by the Fuck Yeah Menswear guys ages ago, it’s basically Comme, Yohji, Rick Owens et al. If it’s your bag you’ll already know to find it at Hostem, Dover Street and LNCC. Fig 2. is basically a street wear bro and if you don’t know what that’s about, you’re on the wrong site. Fig 3. is a sort of heritage / nu-heritage / workwear dude – certainly closest to where my personal head and this blog is at most of the time. Your ‘look’ is probably a loose mix of the above. Or you could be one of those people who steadfastly thinks they’re above fashion and immune to being influenced. You’d be an idiot, but you could be.
Q: Should I roll my trousers up?
A: Jeans, trousers, chinos, whatever… give them a few turns up. It’s rooted in the 60s, in Italian tailoring, it’s euro cool, ciao Bella Pasta etc… Besides, the sun’s out, now’s the time to roll. Check out the following diagramagram for the specifications…
I reckon this is about right. You don’t want to go so high you look like you’re wearing capri pants. Neither do you want them half baked and semi-concertinaing on your shoes. Go hard or not at all. Roll the confidence of a bro that knows his ankles will turn heads like a Victorian hussy. Miaow, and shit.
Q: Are looser trousers the new skinny jeans?
A: If your ambition is to look as cool as a Zara salesman, stick with skinnies.
Q: Are shoes over?
A: I’m not sure shoes can be over? Feels a bit like saying coffee’s over? I’m rather thinking shoes and coffee are going to hang around a bit. No, shoes isn’t over. But maybs you want to try some skater kicks this summer. You know, like slip-on Vans (although I’d avoid regular Vans and go for Be Positive, or YMC). Hate the fact that ‘skater’ shoes are so robustly ‘on trend’ – but they are a neat way of upgrading your steez while not significantly downgrading your financial holdings.
Q: Is the top button done up still a thing?
A: I have written on this before. I think yes. It’s still a thing. But use sparingly, it’s summer remember. A bro’s options are illustrated in the above. Fig 1. the button-up can work, just keep it soft cotton or linen and super-casual. If you start overheating, just pop that bad bwoy open. There’s no shame yo. Fig 2. Going as God intended… unbuttoned. To me, an unbuttoned shirt can look dangerously like a delusional, suited businessman who thinks wearing no tie makes him look modern. And nothing, I repeat, nothing, looks shitter than that. But assuming you’re not wearing a lavender Banana Republic office shirt… go for it. My tip, go chambray and add some beads. Yes I’m being fucking serious. Fig 3. Wear a T-shirt. Sounds redonk, but this season I’m discovering the T-shirt. But contrary to the bro I sketched above. I’m going plain. Navy, grey and white Ts in a slightly larger size than I usually wear. I’m keeping the Ts plain, so as to work with patterned casual blazers. Them’s my uniform.
Quickfire answers…
- Yes, it’s good to wear no socks with shoes and sneakers. A bit of a tan doesn’t hurt.
- Yes, bucket hats are very useful for combating the beating sun, as well as adding a little Serpico to your mix.
- I think thick, white Vibram soles still look pretty strong.
- Superdry is obviously unacceptable under every circumstance.
Such is my advice. Agree? Disagree? Agree with bits, not with other bits? Agree with hardly any of it and disagree with lots of it? That’s potentially so interesting. Thoughts, questions, opinions – I insist you bother me with them.
Great post, love the fact that you’ve pointed out that it’s not all about the skinny jeans! Looser fit works for anyone, whereas the tighter jeans don’t exactly work for all men! – Aaron