Do you ever buy from retailers’ in-house lines? I’ve copped The Bureau x Nicholas Daley (back in the day) and I recently bought a pair of Adieu x Tres Bien shoes. But what about the pure retailer offerings? The Garbstore line? Haven‘s massive range? Goodhood Goods?
Historically, I’ve steered clear. Not because I don’t love the retailers, more because, to my eyes, the products themselves often come off like slightly anaemic versions of lines they already carry. If I wanted an olive utility vest would I choose Haven or Engineered Garments? Why would I go for a Garbstore stripy Coolmax shirt over a Nanamica one?
Enter the new Tres Bien Ateljé line. It’s not yet another riff on military or streetwear, rather a collection of genuinely progressive garments apparently keen to advance the language of menswear. More modernist than utilitarian, lines are clean, simple and rarely interrupted. Garments are cut loose. There’s a strong sense of consideration throughout. As in-house lines go, this feels like a cut above.
For me, this shirt is the standout — a formal(ish) striped cotton number with a freaky mesh covering. Striptease meets Excel spreadsheet. It’s basically business lingerie. I don’t know when this became a thing, but emerging from lockdown with a negligee over your shirt feels as common sense as anything right now.
You can grab one in a couple of (admittedly quite similar) colour-ways. But whether you go for brown or the slightly lighter brown (pictured), that gauzy trim will bring a frisson of erotica to even the most mundane aspects of your job. Generating a media-spend spreadsheet becomes a tremulous copulation between man and logarithm. Feel the rough hands of Google Slides as it peels away your layers probing for deep interface. Unless you want to end up like Julie Christie in Demon Seed and give birth to a spiky organic robot, you’ll wear with caution.