Every now and again there’s a Junya piece that makes you wish you had enough money to buy Junya. Why it is always even more expensive than Comme mainline remains a riddle?

Like a slightly more elaborate Needles Rebuild, this jacket twists familiar military tropes into something at once crude and sophisticated. From one angle it’s hacked together with a buzzsaw, but look again and appreciate the rare design sensibility. And while it’s an odd statement to make about a garment, this results in something that’s perfectly wearable. Not so flouncy as to make you feel uncomfortable, nor so bland you might as well have gone to Lands’ End (as if).

It’s the exact balance between cool and dull. Sadly, that balance comes at a cost.

It looks like you either zip up, or button up. Buttoning leaves the jagged metal teeth exposed and warped (in typical Comme style) and gives you that wrinkly nonchalance that is the ultimate goal here. You’re the kind of guy who spends a fortune on a jacket to look disheveled  — there is no higher art.

The four, up front, flapped pockets will keep your utensils to hand, while the arm-mounted pouch, nicked from an MA-1, keeps things firmly Private Ryan. Side note: I don’t think I’ve actually used an MA-1 style arm pocket, for anything, ever. Does anyone really put pens in there?

I guess I see this piece as a highly desirable, but ultimately unaffordable emotional lifeboat for the times we live in. It’d be a total power move to emerge from lockdown in this: blazery smartness tempered with soldierly stylings; you’re open for business, but you’re not letting your defences down. Perfect, if it wasn’t for the fully-weaponised price ticket. I warn you now, don’t look directly at the price, incoming!!!!: £840.

Expecting more? Who the fuck are you? Eight and a half for a cotton jacket is proper splash damage if you ask me.