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Yuketen: I want, I want, I want…

I’ve just had a pair of these resoled. Not these exact ones, mine are tan, I’ve had them for years. I took them to Hoxton Shoe Repairs and they did an excellent job. It doesn’t stop me wanting this pair as well though.

Yuketen Blucher Rockers (with the kiltie) have been my favourite shoe style for a few years now. I’ve got two pairs, the tan and a pair in green suede. But two is not nearly enough. I think five pairs would be a respectable amount. But I don’t appear to have a spare £485 to buy these. A fact that leads me to believe I probably don’t have £1455 to buy three pairs. Mathematics can be a real kick in the tits.

This pair isn’t just blue, it’s ‘Cardinal Ink’. I’d love a pair in dark navy, but nevertheless, this is a strong shade. If you’re familiar with Yuketen and the Blucher Rockers in particular, you’ll know they’re hand-stitched, using seven asymmetrical pieces of leather drawn from a three-dimensional pattern. So when you lace them up, they contour effectively to the shape of the foot.

They’re also built from Horween Chromexcel leather, which is an especially supple form ideal for this kind of comfortable urban moccasin. I say ‘urban moccasin’, because that’s what Yuketen themselves call it. I love that. Urban. Moccasin. Ideal for the more nonchalant man about town.

Aside from the enviable details — leather insole, Goodyear welting, brass eyelets — it’s simply the look of these things that does it for me. The ‘Rocker’ outsole (manufactured from EVA foam) is vast. It’s like walking on blancmange. Only harder. Less sloppy. And not that much like blancmange at all.

If you haven’t experienced the Yuketen Blucher Rocker they have my highest recommendation. Obviously they work with denim. But I think they really come into their own when worn with a suit or trouser/blazer combo. The whole ‘sneakers with a suit’ thing reeks of ad agency awards ceremony. But a pair of shoes like these — shoes that are about as casual as a shoe can get —  when these are teamed with your formals it’s next level entirely. You’re Serge Gainsbourg. You’re a young Peter Fonda. At the very least you’re a man in some very expensive very casual shoes. And maybe that’s enough.

2 Comments

  1. Dan Lamont

    I love the bluchers so much, finest pair of shoes I have ever owned. Did you get the full rocker sole sorted with Hoxton Shoe Repairs? I thought I’d have to send mine back to Yuketen for an overhaul.

    • Hi there, they didn’t actually replace the entire sole. My pair have the EVA foam sole unit, then a further, thinner piece on the bottom like these ones — https://www.kafkamercantile.com/uk/item/37359/Yuketen/All-Handsewn-Maine-Guide-Ox-Rocker—Glace-Brown.html

      So basically they shaved the EVA foam down a little to even it out (mostly at the back where they had been eroded through wear) then they added a new bottom piece — a little thicker than the standard Yuketen. I’m not sure if Hoxton Shoe Repairs do replace the full EVA unit (I should have asked) but they pride themselves as being London’s best, so I wouldn’t be surprised if they can. I thought I’d have to send them back to Yuketen (which of course is a right drag and something you never get round to), but I gave HSR a call and they said no problem, so job done.

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