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Kolor overcoat: what does meaning even mean?

Wool. Polyester. Checked. Buttons. Savaged with a cutlass. Repaired by the optically challenged. Such is the way of Japanese brand Kolor. It’s tough to get in the UK now, particularly after the shuttering of Shoreditch’s Present. Nevertheless, Kolor continues to peak the interest of a specific type of menswearist. The sort of chap for whom a perfectly sensible checked overcoat rises to the level of a conceptual art work with the addition of some contrasting woollen strips.

And of course, conceptual art doesn’t come cheap, in this instance you’ll come away from Korea’s Sculp Store £1,350 lighter. I’m not suggesting it’s not worth it of course. Surely there’s a challenging metaphysical rational behind the brands’ decision to place those blue patches around the pockets just so. It might even be a rational so inscrutable it doesn’t actually exist. Which is presumably, to some, another level of cool entirely.

I’m probably being unnecessarily snarky. It is after all a pretty spectacular piece. The coat itself – that check, those chunky classic leather buttons – looks special and I know from experience, Kolor clothing is beautifully made. It’s true that the brand does lean towards a kind of polished, runway ethos – put simply, it’s a little fashiony. The kind of fashiony, often at odds with the more crumpled, utilitarian, street-fits we usually celebrate on this site. But Kolor is wearable. And this piece in particular is pretty subdued. Even if your mates are slouching about in Engineered Garments and orSlow you’ll won’t cause a scene in this. It’s interesting, but not quite urban Liberace.

On the other hand. You could swallow the cost and wear it, holding a bunch of daffodils in one hand, and a single boxing glove on the other. Then go and stand on one leg in Hackney with your arms in the air. People will probably pay you a quid a snap. Apparently everything is art these days. Don’t worry about what you’re supposed to represent, you can figure that out later.

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