So, last year Fumito Ganryu left his Comme des Garçons label Ganryu to start his own, independent brand called Fumito Ganryu. This here shirt (amongst the rest of the edit over at LA’s Union) is the result. It seems to be coming from the same place as Ganryu’s Comme work, which is no bad thing, or even much of a surprise. But I suppose it’s telling that I was drawn to this piece, rather than the new brand’s fresher expressions – the variations on coach jackets, the (arguably) hideous royal blue waterproof hoodie, or the triple pocketed long sleeved tee with what looks like a yawning Pac-Man on the front (seriously go and have a look).
It’s probably me. I’m frequently drawn to shirts that look like Comme shirts. But I do quite like this – emphasis on the ‘quite’ and de-emphasis on the ‘like’. I mean, it’s not changing the world, it’s a white shirt with two large neoprene pockets. I’d definitely wear it. But not for $526. I’m not soft in the mind. But hypothetically, if it was wrongly delivered to my flat, I’d hide it under the sink for a couple of weeks, greet any postal inquisitions as to its whereabouts with bafflement and then secretly wear it only in locations a reasonable distance from my home.
I do have issues with this garment though. The price is obviously one. Another is that it’d make you look like a character from Aliens. Not a cool Colonel Marine. Rather a galactic businessman from Weyland-Yutani Corp – someone whose avarice is matched only by their snivelling cowardice. Not a great look.
My biggest issue however is much duller. How would you keep it clean? My experience with complicated shirting leads me towards dry clean only. Which will mean a shirt like this will come back, nice and pressed and, at least, ostensibly clean. But this is a crisp white shirt. By dry cleaning only the collar would yellow over time. Plus of course, one wear and it’d be back to the cleaners – a pricey scenario. So then you’re stuck with hand washing; taking a nail brush to the collar, while prodding hopefully at the neoprene bits with a flannel. Again, not a great look.
Such is the nature of such pretentious garmentary – it costs a fortune in cash up front, followed by an equal amount in stress as you try and keep it looking half as good as it did before you wore it.