Nicholas Daley for AW18, the enthusiastically hyped RED CLAY collection, is hitting stores now. Curiously absent from Daley’s stockist list is The Bureau, who, regular readers will recall, were integral in bringing the line to the attention of menswearists back in February 2017. Perhaps the line hasn’t faired as well as expected with the utilitarian orSlow/EG crowd. Seems surprising though. The RED CLAY collection offers beautiful heavy wools and corduroys, in navys, burnt oranges and ocres – a little extrovert certainly, but hardly avant-garde.
It now falls to London’s Goodhood to carry Nicholas Daley (alongside Dover Street) and the first drop is in – comprising a modified version of the front slit shirt, some simple chunky knits, a collarless take on last winter’s patched, navy cord jacket and the frankly delicious orange cord pieces you see here.
I’m am envious of the model’s ability to effortlessly pull off the shirt and the trousers combo. I fear I would look like a crudely constructed Aperol Spritz. I would, however, take these pieces on separately; calmed with some navy wool perhaps (top or bottom), a crisp white sneaker and perhaps a crumply bucket hat. These pieces are all about the fabric. Giant 5 wale corduroy (the lower the number the fatter the cord) in a shade akin to a spray tanned Wotsit. Specifically, it’s Yorkshire cotton corduroy – I wonder if this is Daley’s supplier?
I’ve bought from Nicholas Daley’s collections since the first one at The Bureau and the cord pieces particularly are superb. Extremely wearable, loosely cut and robust – hence my highest recommendation here. The only issue with Goodhood’s acquisition of the line is the pricing. In my experience Goodhood seem immune to the notion of rounding down; I’ve never found anywhere charging more for Needles. Full disclosure, I’ve yet to be offered any discount at Goodhood either, irrespective of the frequency of my business. Fiscally challenging times then for the Nicholas Daley fan.