With decades leading the avant-garde, it’s no surprise that wearing a Comme des Garçons shirt can encourage in the wearer a sense of supremacy, a feeling of advantage. That said, not all Comme des Garçons shirting is created equal. Any cachet once associated with the PLAY line, for instance, has long since dissolved – ceaseless drops of kaleidoscopic, heart-splashed tees, shirts and knitwear did for it. Then there’s Comme des Garçons SHIRT. Still a reliable source of playful experimentation, but the reliance on giant cut-out holes and see-through panelling seems to have grown along with the price points. Even if you could afford them, could you wear them? Would you even want to try?
I’m sure we all respect the hacked-away pockets, exposed interlining and glittery sleeves of the mainline, Homme Plus. It can be an astonishing spectacle. But again I have to consider the scarcity of occasion it feels right to me to wear a sleeveless sequin-covered tailcoat. I can’t help feeling that these days the male Comme devotee is better off looking to the more restrained Comme des Garçons Homme and Comme des Garçons Homme Deux for their fix.
On the face of it, this Comme des Garçons Homme shirt is fairly unspectacular. The use of a taped zipper provides a visual parity with other more outdoorsy Japanese brands such as And Wander and White Mountaineering. But fundamentally it’s a light blue, button-down shirt. A very useful, nicely detailed, totally wearable, highly expensive, light blue, button-down shirt. That said, it’s Comme des Garçons. For those still seduced by the cryptic and reclusive Rei Kawakubo, those who almost unconsciously gravitate to anything she may have once considered or directed, there is rarely anything more essential.