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Wearing a big logo and sucking your cheeks in

If I see another dude in that fucking Vetements coat. You know the one I mean. Long, black nylon, big ‘Vetements’ logo on the back. The reason why it crops up on the street and in streetstyle shoots so frequently is that it’s the cheapest Vetements piece by a mile – it was in Dover Street at 120 quid for about two days before it sold out. I guess it’s interesting that the fashion crowd have taken to these ‘billboard’ garments – if it’s not Vetements, it’s Gosha, if it’s not Gosha it’s that cheap, nylon Comme des Garcons branded stuff Dover Street knock out in their basement. I’m sure the high-minded fashion crowd would disagree, but this logoed-up T-shirt/coach jacket/sweatshirt movement is simply motivated by a desire for clear label affiliation, tribalism and one-upmanship in the same way ’80’s casual’ was. It’s all a bit obvious.

Don’t think this jacket is too obvious. It’s new over at Oi Polloi. Never even heard of the brand before.

The brand is Manastash. It kicked off in Seattle in the 90’s before relocating to Japan. There’s a strong outdoorsy feel to the range and to my mind, this is the stand-out piece. Cotton lined, with a quilted back and collarless: it’s a jacket that would work as a simple outer layer, or would roll even stronger sandwiched between a shirt and an unstructured blazer.


No branding. So I don’t expect the Gosha crowd to care. But then pulling something like this off well demands a little finesse. A little, dare I suggest it, personal style. Rather than, you know, just wearing a big logo and sucking your cheeks in.

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