This is a formidable piece. Treacherous in the wrong hands. Were this to enter the vicinity of a crisp white shirt and a pleather trouser it would be apocalyptic – witness as the laughable audacity of such an ensemble invokes early 90s dance-soul, champagne grins and Russian discos. Thing is, dress it down with hammered denims, a simple grey sweat and a beanie and you’ll end up looking about as cool as any man deserves to be. It’s a fine line. Danger close people.
If you think you can tame it, maybe you can. Just don’t, in the name of all that is decent and appropriate, try and ‘dress it up’. You’d be straight-up Mick Hucknall.
It’s by Monitaly (headed by Yuki Matsuda of Yuketen) and contrary to the Japanese design and clear Chinese formal heritage, it’s manufactured using old American handcraft traditions. A mixed cultural bag to be sure: check the Mandarin Collar detail, split side hem, loop and knot front closure and two-piece sleeve construction.
Some proper high-end necromancy going on here. And I’m definitely all about it. I’ve been after a loop and knot, Mandarin jacket for a while and if this was straight chambray or denim, it’d be in my closet already. The tie-dye looks superb. I just don’t know if a balding dude of my years can get away with power of tie-dye and Mandarin stylings in one piece. I’m a bit worried I’d just end up looking like Dr Strange’s housekeeper.