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Kolor: That old Franco Moschino joke

Kolor is one of those brands that always feels slightly out of reach, both geographically and financially. In the UK the options are a hostile fingering from Farfetch, or a proxy service cowboy job. Choose either and you’ll end up anxiously refreshing a FedEx-page and sobbing into a large void where your wages once were.

The thing is, for clothesmen at a certain point in their evolution, Kolor can seem like the next logical step. The clothes push hard-luxe, but weave in wearability with a doff of the (technical) cap to workwear and athleisure. But Kolor is also bracingly avant-garde. Weird disassembling; wonky reassembling; unrelated garments shocking conjoined. And those colours: exacting hues, at once achingly now and queasily retro.

Whether you like it or not, the style tram trundles on, and if you’ve already rinsed the Nepenthes family, Snow Peak, Kapital, And Wander etc… Kolor offers a rewarding (but costly) path to explore.

 

You’ll want to check out the mainline, but the trousers we’re looking at today are from Kolor Beacon. Junichi Abe is behind both collections, while his wife Chitose Abe is the mastermind behind Sacai. It’s no coincidence that both Kolor and Sacai interrogate luxury-casual via such similar design language.

On board there’s an anti-wrinkle wool mix, which will provide a touch of elasticity and a smart drape. Still, the real hero of the piece is that waistband. Rarely considered the high-point of any fit, the trouser waistband is all too frequently forgotten, covered by a tee or an untucked shirt. But this waistband isn’t just invited to the dance, it is the dance. You’re entering tuck-in only territory.

A green band around the waist and a built-in nylon belt. I expect to most it appears relatively unremarkable. But to me (and dudes like me  — come on I know you’re out there) this is the business-end of cool. Wearing these I’d basically walk about like a U-bend, pointing my midriff at anyone and everyone. And under normal circumstances I’d expect to receive a police caution  — but I reckon even my local gendarmerie would give me a pass once they clocked these deets.

I can see that waistband taking point in a 100% navy look. Navy tee (tucked in obvs) maybe a loose navy blazer, a facial expression somewhere between attainable and unforgivable arrogance… This shit is too exciting to even type.

I genuinely love these. Prada-esque details, but from a brand considerably more obscure and (hence) desirable. They’re over at I Am Shop if you’re interested.

They remind me of that old Franco Moschino joke. On the midriff of his jackets he used to print the words ‘waist of money’. I didn’t say it was a good joke. But I suppose when you’re looking at £310 for a green waistband it’s certainly applicable here.

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