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JieDa: Oversized or just too big?

This is the era of the ‘oversized’. A time when the right size is the wrong size and bigger is apparently beautifuler.

I’ve often thought making an oversized garment must be fairly straightforward. Surely it’s just a case of making a medium sized garment and labelling it a small? (That’s a degree from The London College of Fashion for you.)

But of course there’s more to it that that. Oversized isn’t too big, not in fashion terms anyway. There’s proportion to consider. An oversized garment needs to be big in the right places. You might want a longer hemline for example, but maybe the sleeves should be the right length.

All of which makes this oversized coat from Japanese designer Hiroyuki Fujita’s label JieDa so interesting. Excuse me if I’m missing something, but is this oversized, or just too fucking big?

Maybe my understanding of oversized is a little passé. Perhaps the new oversized is simply too fucking big? A more radical approach, one that considers ignorance of the rules of proportion a virtue. The dude in the pictures is swamped. The fit is classic ‘charity shop mistake’.

But of course, ignorance can be fun. And accuse me of glorifying trends if you wish, but I kind of like the look. It’s certainly a pleasing antithesis to the body-con horrors of the high-street. Sure, it looks like the sort of thing you’d find at a crime scene in a subway — balled up next to a used syringe and a child’s sock. Even so, at this size-to-body ratio, on this guy in the shots, there’s something cool going on.

Look closely and you’ll also see this derelique energy isn’t confined to the informal approach to size. There’s also exposed seaming in the mix — the now textbook shortcut to ‘intellectual’ deconstruction. Or looking destitute, depending on your perspective.

Other than the fabric make-up (poly, wool, cotton, cupro) you won’t find much detail over at retailer Sculp Store. Although there is the price of course. Which again isn’t merely oversized, it’s just too fucking big.

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