Plain leather, grain leather, woven leather, zig-zagging, pinking sheared leather… it’s all here. An agressively sexual montage of hides. The only things missing are a pair of meaty cocks and an artfully drizzled, egg cup of semen and you’ve got a Tom of Finland art work. Of course, I’m not suggesting that these shoes have an erotic preference as such. I just don’t think they’d look out of place at a Vauxhall pants night.
These shoes are from Toshinosuke Takegahara’s brand, Foot the Coacher. He’s worked for UK brands Trickers and George Cox (the latter a clear influence on this style) as well as launching SPECTUSSHOECO – you might have clocked them on Nepenthes.
It won’t have escaped your notice that these shoes are black. So anyone still persevering with a Health Goth vibe could roll with these immediately. Those of us at home in a more diverse palette (navys, beiges, olives) might find them jarring. Of course there’s always room for black in your flex. But with a dominant, black full stop at the end of your look, you just have to consider what works and what doesn’t quite carefully. For example, black shoes, olive pants and a navy shirt looks shambolic. You might as well just go and do a poo in the high street.
This collision of Punk and Teddy Boy and (arguably) anal romance, is a potent statement. Yes, I wish they were in dark navy leather, enabling a seamless assimilation into my existing closet. But still. The quality is extreme (handmade, Italian Raccagni zip, Vibram Moreflex outsole, Goodyear welt) and it remains wonderful to see styles you might otherwise associate with Camden Market, rendered to such perfection.
Course, we’re in made in Japan territory, with a £552 price tag to match. So even if you’ve got a taste for this kind of liberal leather play, a dudes’s going to need an equally liberal bank manager to even enter the game.