As is frequently the case, I’m totally on the fence here. From one perspective, it’s a jacket by Japanese brand Kolor; highly desirable, off most people’s radar, now available at London’s Present. From another perspective it’s quilted.
Quilted stuff often comes off a bit shiny, a bit fancy-boy, a little too enchanting. It’s frequently the preserve of vanilla poshos. West London types who think something bubbly and gleaming with Moncler stamped on it is the perfect accompaniment to a pair of Tods and a pernicious air of entitlement. While at the other end of the quilted debate, there’s the Tan Shoe Army. The endless commute. The regulation Barbour Chelsea. The triangular footwear all pointing the same way, down the escalator to mediocrity.
So what to make of this jacket? Founded by Junichi Abe in 2004, Kolor make striking versions of entirely wearable, frequently utilitarian garments. Aesthetically they sit somewhere between a chi-chi catwalk brand and a more ‘authentic’ garment maker. Think Junya Watanabe. Think Sacai. Examples which could hardly be more apt, as Abe used to work for Comme des Garçons and he’s married to Chitose Abe, founder and creative director of Sacai. Creds-wise Kolor is off the charts.
None of which directly addresses the quiltiness of this quilted jacket. For me, I’m inclined to think it’s a little too glam. The colour palette is nicely sludgy and autumnal: navy, tan, olive, what’s not to like? But, all those colours, together, the bold colour blocking, and the lustrous nylon? I tend to prefer my statement pieces to have a more rustic edge. I wonder if (ignoring brand and credibility, and allowing myself to enter full biach-mode) it’s basically a hairdressers jacket?