While the Comme des Garçons Homme Plus line chooses to inspire, excite, but also terrify, Junya Watanabe’s output at the frequently overlooked Homme line continues to offer just-twisted-enough takes on wearable menswear. I’m a fan. Anything that boasts the Comme DNA, that also slips easily into rotation works for me. Excluding PLAY obviously, I’m not a tourist.
Of course loads of brands bang out multi-fabric, patchworked coats like this one now. But they didn’t used to. In fact, you can clearly draw a line from nascent Comme, with it’s frayed edges, mismatched cloth and unstructured, slumping lines to much of today’s menswear. Everyone’s doing it now. But it was the original Comme vision that had early 80s fashion editors coughing out their coffee. If any clothing has a soul, it’s Comme. And if you believe that, you’ll understand why this multi-fabric, patchwork coat is more valuable than the rest.
Onboard you’ve got a ribbed shawl collar, hand warmer pockets, two flapped pockets and of course all that panelling. It’s mostly a mix of differently toned cotton twill, but you’ve got polyester taffeta on the front of the elbows and round the back on the yoke. Typical of much Comme, it appears to have been washed, washed some more, tied up with string and washed again, before taking a kicking from a gang of delinquent pumice stones. And this of course is its appeal; bashed and throttled, kind of a bit ugly, but with a price tag designed to exclude pretenders. This is intellectual fashion. If I was smart enough, I’d explain why.
You’ll need to have the best part of a grand in your trousers to look this fucked up. But remember, it is wearable. Unlike much of mainline Comme, this features the requisite amount of sleeves, it boasts comprehensive torso coverage and it’s got pockets, to put stuff in, like a real coat. Practical enough to use, but with a cerebral superiority you cannot hope to understand. Seriously, what do you want for £916 (not including postage and duty.)