As much as Daiki Suzuki’s Engineered Garments capsule collection is wallpapering Instagram in black and red, for me, the capsule is not where the action is. Conspicuous within the main collection, this ethnic floral jacquard, used in The Bureau’s first drop for a simple shoulder bag and this Loiter style jacket is extraordinary. What I don’t find extraordinary is that already, it appears to be only available in size medium. Hardcore UK menswearists are apparently already woke to this one.
As regular readers will know, I’m an evangelist for the versatility of the Loiter style. It sits equidistant between knotted up formality (I wore one to get married in) and sleeve rolling lounging (I’ve worn exactly the same jacket over a tee for a crisp afternoon in the park.) Of course, the pattern here is the thing. Making mock of the practical virtues of the cut with a pomposity of florals, stripes and shapes. What does this jacket go with? Or is the point to clash it up and be damned? As frivolous as these questions are, they’re also sort of not. If you wear this with brown trousers (as a for instance) you’d look too put-together. You’d be clearly trying to make it work with your trousers. You’d look like a tray of tits.
It may compromise the fundamental versatility of the Loiter, but I reckon denim is the only appropriate companion for this pattern. It picks out the fine blue in the pattern, without being matchy-matchy. Dress it down every time. Make it appear like you’ve just tossed this madness on. You know how you unthinkingly load up your rucksack with a pack of French cigarettes, your cracked iPhone and a well-thumbed book on Pasolini? Course you do. Wear it like that. But with jeans. Not brown trousers.