Desert Island moment in menswear history? I’d say mid-late 80s Comme des Garçons. That was when Comme was Comme. Gargantuan silhouettes, floppy jackets, t-shirts as shirts. Architects marched about in pyjama suits, pointing enthusiastically at pastel triangles, while prodding at their Psion Organisers. Trousers were vast and shirts had mismatching buttons. Blazers were boiled, making them look all wonky and bobbly and that was considered a good thing – you’d basically pay a fortune for cooked wool.
The mainline, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, has left this relative simplicity behind – preferring to explore the importance of dinosaur skulls as hats and assless liquid leggings. Fortunately the Comme des Garçons Homme line persists in delivering a variation on classic Comme.
You can buy Comme des Garçons Homme over at End, but their buy seems a little haphazard. It’s all cagoules and tees, presuably targeting their jeans and sneakers core customer. But have a look at Ciacura in Japan. Here you’ll find a small selection of classic Comme pieces; suiting, slightly askew, trousers cut much more generously. Even the shirts in the Homme line appeal. They offer difference, but unlike the Comme des Garçons SHIRT line, your nipples will remain covered and there isn’t a giant felt rhombus stitched around your middle.
Even by the notoriously oblique standards of Comme des Garçons, the Homme line is under promoted. Leaving aficionados to root around Japanese shops trying to piece together the collection. They don’t even have that much of it in Dover Street.
I’ve always imagined that in my dotage, I’ll wear 100% Comme. Grumbling about in distressed navy wool. Yawning on about how I remember when ‘content was content’. At least I know where I can buy my outfits. I’m pretty sure I’ve still got an old Psion too.