So after yesterday’s peculiar trousers, here’s more peculiar trousers. These aren’t quite as peculiar in truth. They’re baggy, naturally – tight cut trousers are only manufactured so people know who to avoid at parties. There’s a couple of styles here, both from Japanese makers Haversack and both available over at NYC’s Green in Blue. But look behind the baggy and, as with all the best men’s clothing, it’s the little details that count.
This style called simply, “Drawstring Wide Pants” is available in green and beige.
You’ll clock the details immediately. The elasticated waist – historically associated with Sunday supplement grandad nappies – which accommodates the more sociable waistline. There’s a tie cord hidden in the waistband, more buttons than are strictly necessary to keep your phallus from popping out and buttons on the hip and back pockets too. That’s a lot of accoutrements on a single pair of trousers. Plus, the fabric is beautiful, there’s a minuscule check in there if you look. The green pair in particular, with that bold lining, are a game changer. Then there’s this style…
These are called, “Belted Wide Cuffed Pants“, and on the face of it, they aren’t quite as complex; simpler fabric, fewer buttons. But it’s the cut which is crucial here. A proper high-waisted approach, with the belt clearly sitting well below a good inch and a half of waistband. They’re basically jazz pants. This is exactly what Comme des Garçons and Yohji trousers used to look like in the late 80s. Why did Comme stop making trousers like this?
I notice that UK retailers of Haversack (The Bureau, Present) have swerved these styles. No idea why. Perhaps they look a bit Spandau Ballet? Or god forbid, Hammer Time? I don’t care, more me it’s a renaissance of Miami Vice style. But more Japanese. And less espadrilley.